Getting To Know Your Brushes

Brushes are essential tools to help you apply makeup with ease.  Don't traumatize your clients by using abrasive poor quality brushes. These tools need not be expensive or branded, either. You can find good brushes if you know where and what to look for.

Makeup Brushes are either made of:

1. Natural Bristles- animal hair. Usually goat, sable or squirrel hair.  The scales in the natural fibers allow efficient transfer of powder to the skin.


2. Synthetic Bristles- these are best for liquid or cream forms of makeup, for easy gliding of cosmetics to the skin.

This post will be all about face brushes. Those that you use to apply foundation, powder, highlighting, contouring and blushing.  There are more kinds of brushes in the market but these are the ones that I personally use. You don't have to own all of them.

I. Natural Bristles


1- Large Powder Brush

• big fluffy brush used in applying loose powder for a smooth, sheer and even application


• the fuller the brush, the more powder will be spread out

2- Small Powder Brush

• a smaller version of the large powder brush. You can do away with it if you already have the large one. Sometimes I use this for applying powder to the neck area because I don't want to put back on the face what I have used on the neck or body.

3- Powder/ Blush Brush

• For contouring/sculpting your cheekbones

4- Angled Blush Brush

• A blush brush that is tapered at the sides for controlled blending application

5- Fan Brush

• For sweeping off excess powder, applying sheer coverage, highlighting cheekbones and the list goes on. The use of this brush varies.

II. Combination of Natural and Synthetic Bristles



Stippling Brush-

The latest innovation for quicker and even application of liquid foundation. Make circular motion to distribute the fluid. This can also be used for applying powder forms for an air-brushed finish.

Made of a combination of natural and synthetic fibers, hence the term dual-fiber.

III. Synthetic Bristles



1-Foundation Brush-

To apply, distribute, and blend  liquid foundation into the face. Made of synthetic fiber.

2-Concealer Brush-

A smaller version of the foundation brush used to apply concealer on problem areas.

The eyeshadow brushes will be up in the next installment of this series on makeup brushes.

Make Up Artist In Scrubs Gets A Clinic

This site which was previously billeted at http://vanityconsult.com has now moved to a new home here at http://vanityclinic.com. My blog fell into the Server 404 trap which pushed me to pack my bags and find my blog a new, more stable site where I have control of.

This is now powered by wordpress and hosted by hostmonster.com. I chose a new domain because I wasn't sure if the previous one would work with this and besides, this domain comes free with the paid hosting. I redirected vanityconsult.com to this address so that previous readers will not be left clueless.

Starting all over again, losing readership and the previous ranking which was steadily moving up in the Alexa meter may be a downer but seeing the new look of my site thrills me now.

I have topics cooking up before my blog went offline so please do stay tuned for the latest updates. Stay beautiful, people!

Aromaleigh Shopping

In one of my previous posts, I excitedly announced the international shipping that Aromaleigh was about to offer. Their lipglosses are among the most recommended by mineral makeup junkies. I have tried the samples myself, through my friend in the States, I loved the scent and the texture of the richly-colored lipglosses. They used to restrict shipping to the US only.

Today, upon reading the newsletter from aromaleigh with the go-signal for international shipping, I lost no time in hitting the shopping cart and purchased samples of their latest products. I orderedRocks! Sonic Lip Tint samples, all 8 colors for only $6.48. I included samples of their Lip Infusion Lip Gloss in Enamored because i haven't included it in my order before. Taking the cue from Sophie, I decided to try out their Ultra Resolution finishing powder- their take on HD or High Definition makeup which is the buzz in the makeup industry today.

The good news is with all of those in my cart, the shipping was only $5.00. Well purchasing full sized products is a little pricey- $12. You can save by ordering more products in one shipping. Samples will do for now.

Brush Anatomy

This is an introduction to a series of discussions on makeup brushes. Let us get to know the parts of a brush. They are divided into 3 components, namely:

1. Hair Bundle
- this can be made of natural hair, natural bristle or synthetic materials. It is further divided into the a.) flower tip and the b.)length-out. The former is the one coming in touch with the skin while the latter is the visible part between the flower tip and the ferrule. The bottom of the hair bundle is dipped into a glue and inserted to the ferrule.

2. Ferrule
- this is the metal tube securing the hair bundle to the handle. They should be double crimped and seamless to avoid unsteady handles. They are often made out of brass, copper or aluminum. Brass is the strongest one. Aluminum mixed with other metal can just be as strong. Brushes like those from Mac are nickel plated for corrosion resistance and aesthetic value.

3. Handle
- a good brush is securely placed in the handle socket and doesn't shed. Handles can be made out of acrylics, woods or metals. Caution during washing your brushes with especially those with wooden handles: do not leave your brushes soaked up to the handle or the coating would come off. If you do have to have your brushes stand in water overnight (an old school method), make sure it is only until the level of the hair bundle and don't leave it for too long or else some brushes' color tend to bleed, contaminating brushes nearby.

Pookie Makeup

No, I'm not trying to gross you out or speak profanity. This is a line of makeup that caught my attention while browsing cherryculture.com. To the makers of this brand, it is a term of endearment. "We thought it was the perfect name for the only product you practically kiss, " the description read. In Filipino language, however, Pookie is a rather very intimate part of the female human anatomy. Uh.. ok, it refers to the genitalia. There.

The makeup brand is not at all applied to that area of the body nor is it owned by Filipina comedian Pokwang, but the products available at the site are all for the lips. As in the lips on your face. Not lips some place else. Here's one I found amusing:

Pookie Be Mine- a honey-flavored lip balm best seller:

Very catchy. By the way, I was surfing cherryculture.com because of their end of summer sale. Avail of 20% discount until August 24, 2008 only. I have my sights on the Nyx goodies. Use this code in checking out: EOS20. Grab a Pookie along the way. Err.. that sounded awkward. Anyway, enjoy!

Basic Make-up Kit

A checklist for the makeup artist's basic stash:

1. Foundation

This is your base or the first layer in a makeup look. It conceals flaws, evens out skin tone and gives your skin a healthy glow. This could be your most important makeup investment. Your stash should include a light and a dark shade. It may be tricky to find an exact match to your client's skin but you can mix foundation colors to get the perfect match. Foundation should be blended down below the jawline until the neck with no harsh lines of demarcation. They come in liquid, cream, mousse, or powder forms.

2. Concealer

It may be applied before or after foundation. I prefer putting it after so as not to ruin the properly stippled concealer on areas where it is needed. Blemishes, dark undereyes, acne breakouts will disappear like magic if you know the proper application of concealers, otherwise, you may end up emphasizing the problem more. Several forms are available in varying coverage, depending on the areas to be concealed. When using it for undereye circles, it should be moist and creamy, while covering blemishes may call for a drier texture to adhere and last longer.

3. Powder

This provides the staying power for your makeup and control the shine by helping absorb the skin's natural oils. The finer it is, the better, with less tendency to cake. Between loose and pressed, the latter absorbs more oil but for retouch, a pressed one is more convenient to carry around, unless you brought a pump brush with the loose powder.

4. Eyebrow Kit

You can use pencil, powder, creme or brow gel to shape the brows and frame the face. Some beauty pundits discourage the use of pencils because it draws a cartoonish effect on the brows. I personally prefer a powder form applied with a brush. I use a dark, usually brown eyeshadow shade to pull this off. But then, choose whatever you're comfortable with. You can top the brows with powder over the pencilled area to make it last longer and look more natural. A brow gel helps tame unruly eyebrows.

5. Mascara

A dramatic way to open up the eyes. Waterproof is the most commonly used especially for events that may involve crying (like wedding). However, this formulation may be irritating for women with sensitive eyes. A disposable wand may be used for more sanitary practices and avoid spreading of eye infection. It is better to apply two layers of thin coating than a single clumpy coat.

6. Eyeliner

It is an important element which can accentuate the eye and make the lashes appear thicker. A liquid type is harder to apply than a pencil but it would depend on the eye shape and desired look. You can even use eyeshadows for lining.

7. Eye Shadows

You could get intimidated by the various color choices but a neutral palette is a staple item for makeup artists. If avant garde is your forte, your choices must be wider. The textures come in powder, creme, liquid and pencil. For a more intense color, you can put powder over a creme form. A creme is more difficult to blend and it creases more. You can use an eye primer to lessen the creasing and for colors to stay. Eye shadow finishes have matte, shimmer, frost and satin types.

8. Blush/ Bronzer

These impart a healthy glow and give a well sculpted appearance to the face. The rules of contouring should be remembered when applying blush. Blend well and avoid a clownish finish. Matte forms usually last longer than shimmer ones. Be careful not to apply a shimmer blush to the apples of the cheeks when it is already very prominent. This could make the cheeks plumper.

9. Lipstick

Shaping the lips may be extra difficult due to the many planes and curvatures of the structure. Lipsticks come in a variety of formulas, including matte, creme, frost. sheer, gloss and pencil. They are among the products that are quicker to expire so don't haul too many at one time. Be careful for signs of deterioration.

10. Makeup Brushes

They have various forms and functions but a good makeup brush should be soft enough not to irritate the skin but effective in delivery of pigments to the face. Using your hands may be ok to blend makeup but some clients aren't comfortable with your hands laying on their faces. I will be orienting you on the different brushes in later posts. Make sure they are washed at least once a week. After a gig, I wash them afterwards to avoid harboring bacteria and passing it on to the next client.

11. Sponges/ Powder Puffs

Although I prefer brushes over sponges in application of makeup products, these are indispensable tools for absorbing too much product, especially under the eyes, for blending and erasing smears. It should glide smoothly against the skin.

12. Eyelash Curler

For people with straight and short lashes like I do, it does wonders in opening up the peepers. It may also be a most dreaded tool because it can traumatize if you accidentally include the lids in crimping. Ouch! You have an alternative in heated lash curlers like Blinc's. Metallic crimpers should be used before application of mascara and heated ones are used after mascara. Some would heat the metallic crimpers with a hair dryer to curl the most stubborn lashes but be careful that you don't burn the lids of your client when the metal gets in touch with her skin.

13. Tweezer/ Razor

For clients with brows that bring you back to the caveman era, you need to shape it using tweezers or razor. I prefer razor over tweezer since pulling the hair off on the same day you'd be applying makeup could leave the pores open and prone to infection. The tweezer would also be helpful in applying false eyelashes if needed.

14. Makeup Remover, Cotton Buds, Square cotton, Baby Wipes, Tissues, Alcohol

Avoid tugging the skin in an effort to erase accidental smears. Use a good makeup remover. Wipe off colors from your brushes using baby wipes, let dry before dipping it in another color. Wash your hands and sanitize them with alcohol even if you will be using brushes.

15. Makeup Traincase

When I was just starting, I used toolboxes sold at hardware stores to organize my kit. It was easier to clean and lighter to carry around. However, to avoid scaring the client by the household repair tools associated with the box, which she might think are needed to drastically alter her looks, I decided to get an aluminum traincase used by makeup artists. I still use the toolboxes at home to keep my makeups. Sometimes, I use a small suitcase which is lighter to carry and pack the makeups in pouches according to the area of use.

The details and recommendations for each product will be discussed in future posts. Til the next update.

Camellia Rose Skin Primer

I finally got to own a bottle of one of the makeup world's best recommendations: the Camellia Rose Skin Smoothing Primer.

Jen, the owner of Camellia Rose had to temporarily hold orders of the said primer because the demands were pouring in like mad. Since her products are handcrafted and prepared upon placement of order, she needed extra time to heed the clamor of makeup junkies.

It took me months to wait for them to restock while I continued to read positive reviews of the product with envy. What were all the raves about and why was it causing a virtual stampede on the Camellia Rose store?

I observed for a week before dishing out a fair review on the product and here's my take on it's success story:

A skin primer is something you apply to your skin before the makeup, to create a smooth base and hold the makeup longer. It prevents oiliness from coming out sooner and fills in large pores , craters and fine lines. This is an important step in creating a perfect canvass.

The ingredients are as follows: dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, silica, squalene, watermelon seed oil, red raspberry seed oil.

I'll lay down the other reasons why it gets my seal of approval:

• It works. When I head off to the clinic everyday, I hardly use a liquid foundation to avoid parabens and other harmful preservatives. Yet, with Camellia Rose primer, i get the same smooth effect which I benefit from using liquid foundation, minus the health worries. I hardly see a shiny area on my face by the time I come home. My skin craters are still covered, with no touch ups done. Being an oil spill, it should qualify as a miracle.
  

• Pleasant smell. Silicone based primers have this rubbery scent which is tolerable for me but Camellia rose primer reminds me of a yummy watermelon you'd love to feed your skin.

• Easy to apply. It has the same consistency as smashbox primer which is easy to glide on your skin. Let it dry for 2-3 minutes before topping it with your regular makeup. With pure luxe, although the smoothing effect was excellent, I had trouble spreading them out with brushes because of clumping.
  

• No skin irritation or break outs. For 1 straight week of using this, I had no adverse effects noted. In fact, the remnants from latest acne attack has tamed down. Some girls have reported allergic reactions towards squalene and red raspberry which are ingredients found in the original version of the primer but you can always opt for the Camellia Rose V 2.0 in which the said ingredients are replaced by camellia and rice bran oil. By the way, I ordered the 2 versions which I use alternately. I still can't decide which is better because both work fine with me.

• Affordable. A jumbo size is sold for only $18.95. Other primers cost around $30 per bottle. One tiny pump a day is all you need. Too much amount could lead to creasing.The bottle should last for a very long time.
  

• Excellent customer service. The shipping was fast, I'm from the Philippines but my order arrived in less than 2 weeks. That's really something. Jen is a very nice, sweet lady who adds personal touch to her transactions. When I told her about this beauty blog, she was beaming with praises for the projects I did as a makeup artist. Despite juggling motherhood and business, she spends time to get to know her clients and make them feel special. She emanates with positive vibes which probably rubs off on her handcrafted products.

What's Hot: Empty Palette From Coastal Scents

If you like pressing eye pigments, this will end your hunt for empty palettes.

The pan sizes are similar to Mac's eye shadow refills, 26mm. The case accommodates 15 pots. The Mac 15- slot empty palette has to be purchased from Mac Pro stores. I tried buying one from ebay but was always out-bidded. If availing of the buy now option, the price could soar up to $25 per case, shipping excluded.

Coastalscents, the company known for their affordable makeups and brushes is granting our wishes by coming up this lovely palette for only $7.95! Pressed eye pigments or lip colors could go well perfectly into these, including your Mac eyeshadow refills looking for home.

The last time I checked, they were still in stock. Hurry, hoard if you must.

Beauty Tips For the Bride

My friend Styx texted me, asking for beauty tips on her wedding very soon. My answer wouldn't fit in an sms, hence I decided to write this article for her and the soon-to-be brides who want to look their best on their big day.

Skin Care

Your makeup artist can only do so much. Take care of your skin as it will be be doubly difficult creating a perfect canvass with bumpy zits ruining your pretty face.

A facial would be good for your skin. Start 6 months prior to the wedding. Make sure that your last session will be at least 2 weeks and not a few days before the event. This could leave reddish marks on your skin and bring impurities to the surface.

If you have a huge acne days before the wedding, visit your dermatologist for an intralesional injection of steroids. The zit should subside within 24 hours.

Don't bask in the sun. Overdoing it may lead to sunburn. If you want a tan, consider bronzing creams instead. Similarly, avoid peeling creams near the big day. Patchy, dry, flaky skin may be difficult to conceal.

Avoid frequent night outs, exposure to smoke and alcoholic beverages. They all lead to a dull skin.

The Sexy Bride

Create an exercise routine months before the event. Enlist your bridesmaids to join you to make the activity more fun. Wanna get rid of that tummy bulge or those big arms? Customize your routine to address the problems.

Be careful what you eat. Skip the high carbo and switch to veggies and fruits. Drink at least 8 glasses of water a day. A healthy diet will speed up the beneficial effects of your exercise.

Take your daily multivitamins to keep you in top shape.

Hair Flair

Decide which hairstyle you want. Grow it long or trim it down, curl or straighten it, weeks or months before. Find a style that will flatter you. If unsure, ask your hairstylist for advise.

Don't color your hair a few days before the big day if you are prone to allergies, unless your groom fancies a swollen bride. Allergic reactions could cause rashes, edema and at worst, difficulty of breathing. You could get rushed to the emergency room and sabotage your special occasion. Make sure to test the products before using them.

If your hair is on the limp side and you want curls or volume, avoid using shampoo and conditioner on your wedding day. Some hairdressers have to wash them with laundry soap to minimize the oiliness and limp appearance. That way, it becomes easier to style.

Hands And Feet

They are areas which shouldn't be neglected. Treat yourself to a foot spa. Get a manicure and pedicure from someone you can trust not to inflict wounds. Paint your nails with pinks or peaches, not screaming red.


Bridal Makeup

Choose a makeup artist you are confident to bring out the best in you. Book an appointment months before because the artist you have in mind may not be available on your chosen date, leaving you to the hands of those you aren't comfortable with. Check out their previous works before committing. This is your big day, not a time for big risks. It is crucial to have a trial makeup months prior . Set a date for this and tell your mua what you have in mind. Although she probably knows what looks best for you, you need to articulate your thoughts, to arrive at the look you desire.

If you have allergies to makeup, tell your artist beforehand so she can choose hypoallergenic products for you. If it's a bad case of allergy, see your dermatologist so she can prescribe medications earlier, unless your mua is also a doctor *coughs*.

Eyelash extensions may be the "in" thing today, but if you already have nice lashes, you might have to think twice about getting one for your wedding. Besides being tricky to care for, it cannot be curled or applied with a waterproof mascara, so that limits the mua's capacity to put volume into it, unless you opted for an already dramatic set of extensions, which may not look natural after the wedding day.

Get some sleep!

Preparations for the wedding may get stressful, leaving you less time to sleep. On the week itself, especially the night before you walk down the aisle, try to get adequate rest. A natural fresh, well rested look is a lot better than a well-concealed raccoon eyes.

On your momentous event, don't forget to smile and cherish this important day in your life. Enjoy every moment of it. Remember the first time you fell in love with your groom and hold on to those sparkles in your eyes.



Photo by: Dustein Sibug
Model: Kristine Faye Ragpala-Tan
MUA: Grace Pamparo-Bandoy

Style Spotting: Katie Holmes' New Hairdo

Katie Holmes oozes with"oomph" factor as she strolls in Manhattan with this new hair style. I'm betting that beauty salons will soon be loaded with girls wanting to have their hair chopped like Katie's. With the rising prices of gasoline, saving up on shampoo and conditioner won't be a bad idea. I love the accentuating scarf and glasses.

 

Study Makeup Without Breaking The Bank

If you got it, then you got it. If you have the eye for beauty, then you will know what makeup looks good even if you lack the formal training for it. But like any form of art, you need mastery of skills and constant practice to maximize your God-given gifts.

If you have the resources, take the opportunity to study in a good beauty school. Go to Hollywood, London or Singapore if you got the money to burn. If you don't wanna stray far, I have listed the top makeup schools in Manila in my previous posts. Unfortunately, we don't have college student loans of sorts here for a makeup artistry course. It may still be a little pricey so if you want to learn makeup artistry without selling your kidneys, here are inexpensive ways to do it.

Read makeup books

Some of my recommendations are:

1. Makeup Makeovers by Robert Jones- If you're into natural looking makeups, Robert Jones will teach you how you can transform into the babe that you wanted to be. From face shapes to the right tools to use to the step by step application, Robert Jones got them covered.


2. Plastic Surgery Without the Surgery by Eve Pearl-You can save yourself from the expensive surgical procedures just by learning the tricks on how to correct your flaws and accentuate your best features.


3. Making Faces by Kevyn Aucoin- The legendary Kevyn Aucoin left us with a makeup book that served as a makeup bible to students. Take your pick from natural to avant garde looks.


Watch Video Tutorials

The thing with videos is that you can watch every step of the way, observe the tutorial in motion.

1. Online Videos-
The most inexpensive way is to check out on video tutorials from youtube, videojug, etc. If you have a fast internet connection, there is no way you won't enjoy watching the videos made by generous makeup gurus. Among my favorites is Enkore over at youtube. He answers my questions too, that's why I'm proclaiming him my online makeup teacher.

2. CDs/ DVDs-
The first makeup CD I bought was Fanny Serrano's "Touch" a step by step makeover clinic. He has a good tutorial on face shapes with complete demonstration of makeup application. He said there was a follow up to the video but I haven't heard of a new release yet.

I am drooling over the makeup dvd's sold at Amazon.com that if you feel benevolent enough to donate to me some of the videos they got, I'll gladly accept them. Seriously, you can check out Your Best face Forward: Makeup Application Tips and Techniques. The steps are said to be easy to follow. Others are: Your MakeUp - Simple Steps to Amazing Looks Learn by DVD, and the list goes on.

Read Beauty Blogs

The best things in life are free. Beauty blogs like The Doctor is vaIN offer makeup tips and trends you wouldn't want to miss out. Since my site is fairly new, I'm still filling you in on the basics about beauty. I do have plans of making tutorials on how to apply makeup soon so I can share how I applied the various looks on my models. Subscribe if you don't wanna be left out.

Work As An Apprentice

Individual makeup artists may need assistants for certain events and shoots. Look for those who are open for apprenticeship. They will teach you their techniques and you get to tag along with them in makeup gigs. In return, you give them a helping hand while at work- sanitize brushes, hand over certain makeup items, do the hairstyling or do the makeup for other models or clients. The free tutorial is already a big steal. Whether you get paid or not will be up to your agreement but most MUAs do allot a percentage for their assistants especially if it's a paid shoot or event.

Practice

If you have friends or siblings willing to be glammed up, sign them up as your guinea pigs. Every face you paint is an opportunity to improve. No two faces are alike, hence you will be learning the attack for each unique canvass you practice on, not just your face. Take pictures of your work and note the errors you committed. Do not get frustrated if you make a couple of mistakes at first. Soon you will get the hang of things and create your own brand of art with a little persistence.