How Not To Go Bankrupt Reading Beauty Blogs

Beauty.. Fashion.. Techie.. Food.. Lifestyle blogs.. they're all the same.. They introduce you to all the cool stuffs you never knew existed. Whenever I'm on a tight budget, I stay away from them. Never mind that I maintain this beauty blog which has been practically abandoned because I was busy looking for money to buy things that I read on other blogs. Err..

You probably read beauty blogs such as this (The Doctor is vaIN), because there's a new make up or skin care procedure that you want to try, but are hesitant to give in to because you're not sure if it will be worth it. You want me to tell you, "go ahead, splurge on this one, it's a miracle from heaven," or "forget it, it's not worth the hype." The best thing about blogs by regular people is that you get an idea about the investment you're about to make from those who actually tried it. The reviews we read are essential to pre-purchase stages. Problem comes in when there are too many awesome products we blog about and you want to try all of them even if you don't have the budget for it.

In this age of blogs, Instagram or Facebook, it's easy to give in to our materialistic urges. The pretty things that we see on other people make us green with envy, sometimes even to the point of insecurity. We think we have to have what they own to make us feel appreciated. Clearly, this is a false sense of security that seduces us every now and then.

Lately, I found myself browsing fashion blogs, not only because their pictures are catchy but I also get style ideas for power dressing from fashion-forward gurus. But then, the subliminal message a blog imparts is too influential that marketers have recognized this power by tapping on bloggers to promote businesses. Sometimes I find myself wishing for- say, a Balenciaga bag because I saw how pretty it looked on Camille Co or Kryz Uy. But then, my rational self would take over and ask, "If I had the money to burn, wouldn't it be wiser to spend that on real estate, or the latest Mac Book, or the highest end Canon DSLR and lenses, or a cutting edge machine for my clinic?" Unless of course if those bags could fly and carry themselves on their own.

I'm thankful that my inner Suze Orman speaks to me in times of temptations to buy things that are beyond my purchasing power. In reading blogs and browsing pictures containing things we wish to have, let's go rational before hitting the "buy" button, shall we?

Are There Cheaper Alternatives?

Go ask yourself, "is it necessary to get the exact brand?"

I'm not telling you to steer clear of expensive goods, because sometimes, we do get what we pay for. Although I'm guilty about featuring some beauty products that sting on the wallet, I invest on them because of the quality I need that cannot be found in other brands. Buying cheaper ones that don't deliver its promises only end up being more costly in the long run.

When I was still doing makeup gigs, buying a makeup chair and trolley bag were necessities because breaking my back would be more expensive. It was an investment. Same goes with my Make up For Ever and Smashbox foundations, I used them because I wanted the best results for my clients. I don't just choose them to impress people with my tools, I had to have them because they work best.

If you must really purchase, scout for cheaper alternatives first. If there aren't any, then go for the tried and tested ones even if they're priced higher. Save up for it.

Rummage Around Your Existing Goods

Sometimes, when we look around our closet, we see things unused because we bought them on a whim. Maximize what you already have before buying something new which will likely gather dust once more.,

When I read about the Urban Decay Naked Palette on beauty blogs, I couldn't resist having one for myself too. Sure, it was awesome, the quality is superb, in fact if you're still on the hunt for a neutrals palette, I'd recommend you to get the Naked Palette. But then I already had tons of MAC neutrals that I previously invested on. Getting another set of eye shadows with almost the same shades turned out to be impractical.

If you're lusting over the heaps of make ups of some beauty bloggers, think again. Unless you'll earn back your investment by turning pro in the make up industry, there's nothing to be jealous about redundant makeup shades that are piling up. You only have 2 eye lids to put them on, unless you fancy doing makeup of your whole barangay for free. Remember, make up products have expiry.

If you still don't feel like using what you already have, sell them. With makeups, sanitation issues may be difficult to reckon with, so it may take a while or a much cheaper price for you to dispose used cosmetics.

Innovate

Now that you've found potentially useful stuff lying around your crib, let your creative juices flow and create something unique that even trendsetters would crave for. The young Carrie Bradshaw found her mom's Mark Cross purse accidentally tainted by her bratty little sis, but her avant garde artistic sense rescued it into a fashion must-have. In fact, it caught the attention of fashion editor Larisa Loughlin. Alright, "Carrie Diaries" may be a fiction, but you get my point, right?

When I had several lipsticks accumulating, I researched on ways to make my own palette. I blended some colors which resulted to shades that won't be bought anywhere. Cheap, practical, achievable.

Be Realistic

If you earn below Php 10,000 a month, do you think people will be impressed if you strut around town wearing Balenciaga? The first thing they'd probably ask you will be, "which ukay did you get it from?" Or, tell you : "nice replica!" Or worse: "who's the sugar daddy?" Stay real. If you really want it bad, ask yourself, "what would you accomplish from having it?" Think about the bills and obligations you have to fulfill before indulging in luxury. Don't compromise the your financial security or that of  your family with temporary quirks that will never increase in value.

If you consider your materialistic desires to be your driving force to succeed, then learn how to save and invest with the little income you have, then wait until you can actually afford it before you splurge. However, if you belong to the rare breed of the filthy rich, then what you do with your money is none of my business.

Build Your Confidence

When you are confident about yourself, not a single Chanel or Prada will be required to boost your coolness factor. If you're insecure, it will be easy to give in to what society dictates and buy anything that you think will heighten your status in the community. Develop your skills, be the best you can be, because people dig in to truly confident, positive individuals, regardless of the brand you wear.

Whenever you're tempted to blow your budget to fit in, remember Will Smith's line, "Too many people spend money they haven't earned to buy things they don't want, to impress people they don't like."

Expert Tips For Preventing Makeup Meltdown

They say in the Philippines, there are only two seasons- hot and very hot. Being in a tropical country poses an extra challenge to makeup artists especially during the summer when the city we live in suddenly turns into one giant oven.

Last summer,  I had a couple of makeup gigs in which I was  confronted with the problem of making the makeup stay longer, particularly at the beach setting. I usually have that  issue covered with high quality cosmetics and right application techniques but the heat and humidity were just too much that it demanded extra measures on my end as a makeup artist.

I tapped the help of some of the best makeup artists and beauty experts in the country to shed more light into this perennial  problem of makeup meltdown in a humid country like ours. They offered tips which I believe will be valuable for us whether we do makeup on ourselves or as a professional.



Ara Mina, an actress/entrepreneur who recently ventured into beauty products has these secrets to spill: "It would be advisable to use lighter makeup like a tinted moisturizer when it's hot and to put primer before applying foundation."



Bianca Valerio, the sassy host of Lifestyle Network's F.A.S.H. has her share of  tips from her years as a model and makeup artist: " Oil film for me is best! Avoid heavy foundation in cake form which could look unnatural, not to mention a torture to your skin as it won't allow it to breathe. Use BB cream instead with an oil free formulation, which has concealing properties, and SPF, more importantly."

Xeng Zulueta, the former chief makeup artist of Shu Uemura, was quick to name a single product that she believes to be effective  in addressing our makeup conundrum: " Shu Uemura BB cream mousse!"



Steven Doloso, a top celebrity makeup artist whose works on Lea Salonga remain my favorite pegs, (and whose humility amazes me!) was busy at a makeup gig for a TV ad with John Lloyd Cruz when I asked  his expert opinion. According to Steven: "There's a product called final seal (e.g. Ben Nye Final Seal or Kryolan Setting Spray) but it's not recommended for everyday use as it can clog pores. I normally use that during outdoor shoot or under the sun so the make up won't melt."

Finally, I enlisted the help of the madgician herself, Madge Landrito (formerly known as Madge Lejano) whose vast experience in the wedding industry and uncanny ability to turn plain janes into divas earned her the moniker, "the madgician." Her schedule barely affords her to do things other than makeup, so you can imagine my excitement when she handed me these extensive valuable pointers to share with you:

FOR YOUR BASE. YOU CAN CHOOSE EITHER OF THE FF:
1. Protect your skin first from UV rays by using SPF skin care products. Apply sunscreen before putting foundation or powder, whichever you use, depending on your skin type. Oil free foundation is much preferred. Then blend.

2. Prime Your Face. Not only will it let your makeup last but it will minimize your lines and creases. It also diminishes the need for powder.

LESS IS MORE!
The truth: applying more makeup doesn't mean it will last longer. Apply it better, not more!
Loading up on powder can make you look cakey as the heat blazes. Greasy makeup like very heavy and creamy foundation don't last well in hot conditions. A sheer/liquid foundation will be the best option.

GO FOR WATERPROOF
For blush, Use cheek stain on your cheeks,
Lip stain or lip tint for your lip.
Add drama by using waterproof Mascara!

BLOT AWAY
A lot of people make the mistake of toning down shine with powder. If you're hot, sweaty and shiny, you don't want to add powder onto oil and perspiration or you'll end up a floury, chalky mess (like an espasol). Instead, blot the affected area by using tissue, blotting papers or oil film. This will absorb the oil without messing up the makeup.

Don't you find it awesome how the madgician unselfishly shares her wisdom with us? If you can't get enough of her tips, I'd highly recommend that you attend her " Mark the Spot" seminar on August 15, 16,and 17 at the St. Francis Shangrila place function room 3, from 10am to 3pm. For more details, please email themakeupstudio@gmail.com or contact Grace Ranjo at 09178949480.

Makeup For Photography

Most of us already have a good idea of how to apply makeup for everyday occasions, but model shoots and portraits are a slightly different affair. The camera flash washes us out more easily and in most cases glitter is out of the question. Of course, the way we apply makeup changes depending on the style and location of the photo shoot, but there are general rules of thumb and you’ll find them right here.

Preparations
• Be near a window or an open door so you have natural light by which to apply your makeup. Avoid dark bathrooms or ones with soul-sucking incandescent lights that will make your skin tone appear different from its actual color. You don’t want to end up using the wrong shade of foundation or blush.
• Prep your skin. In the words of Henry David Thoreau, “What good is a house without a tolerable planet to put it on?” Likewise, what good is the best foundation on the market if your skin is flaky, oily, or scaly to begin with? Wash, exfoliate, tone, and lightly moisturize before applying any makeup. Know your skin type and use appropriate products.
• Didn’t get enough sleep? Preparation H may be embarrassing to buy, but it will ease puffy eyes.
• Got an inflamed blemish? For a quick fix, try icing it for a few minutes.
• Gently pull your hair back into a bun and clip back flyaways. Style after washing your face or applying makeup.

Laying Down the Foundation
• If you have large pores, you may want to begin with a primer. Try Bare Escentuals primer or the oil control version.
• For the concealer, go two shades lighter than your skin tone to cover blemishes, under-eye circles, and dark spots. Use a green tint to cover red spots and yellow to cover purple spots.
• You’ll generally use more makeup for a photo shoot than you will for going out to lunch. Choose a thicker foundation rather than sheer ones to cover blemishes. Blend it all the way down to your neck so it doesn’t look like you’re wearing a mask.
• Apply translucent powder for a matte finish and continue to reapply between shots.

Cheeks, Eyes, Lips
• Try this trick: apply blush to the apples of your cheeks and contour your cheek bones with a little bronzer. Make sure to add some bronzer to the top of your forehead near the hairline, the bridge of your nose, and a little on your chin.
• Highlight your brow bones with light shadow.
• Avoid shimmery, glittery, or frosty shadow, which may distract from the rest of your face in a photo.
• Depending on the nature of the shoot, you’ll go for precisely applied liner or a smoky look. Either way, be sure to begin lining at the outer corner of your eye and go inward three-fourths of the way. Avoid lining the inner corner (unless you’re going for an edgier high fashion look).
• Apply light shadow on the inner corners of your eyes and go darker on the gradient on the latter three-fourths of your eyelids.
• Use waterproof mascara. Run a clean brush through your lashes between applications to avoid clumping.
• Eye makeup usually has to go on thicker and darker than everyday applications. The flash of the camera can wash you out, otherwise.
• Line your lips with the same color of your lip stick. Don’t fall for the ‘90s dark liner, light lips look.
• Avoid too much gloss, since it can be as distracting as glitter in your eyes. Really focus on your lip color—eyes and lips are generally the focus of most photo shoots.
Lastly, remember to take your makeup with you to the shoot. You never know when, during an outdoor shoot, rain will strike or the wind will blow your hair into your lips and drag gunk across your face. Although these scenarios aren’t happy ones, at least you’ll be prepared for last minute fixes.

MUA In Scrubs' note: the above article  is a guest post from Heather Green. Born and raised in North Carolina, Heather Green has worked as a fashion and beauty consultant as well as freelancing for various wedding, fashion, and health publications. She currently acts as the resident blogger for Online Nursing Degrees where she’s been researching complementary health nursing programs as well as the issue with nursing career outlook data.

If you're interested to be a guest author in this blog, please send me a message through the contact form. Thanks!

Eyes To Go: 2-Color Designs

Make-up artists can use up to 10 shades of eyeshadows to come up with a unique and pretty look for a celebrity or a bride, until their artistic thirst is quenched. On a daily basis, however, you don't need that much color for an eye makeup for personal use. In fact, you can do away with only two eye shadow colors for a quick makeup fix which you can wear for work or even on special occasions.

The 2 eyeshadow application is the easiest way to learn for newbies, and the fastest to apply for ladies who are always on the go. What you need is one darker matte shade and another color that is shimmery and lighter.

Product suggestions

When I visited the Bobbi Brown counter in Rustan's Makati a few weeks ago, I found two pretty colors that could make a good combination for 2 eyeshadow designs. These shades are said to be among their best sellers:


Bobbi Brown's Camel- a soft matte caramel shade, and Bone- an off-white shimmery highlighter.

Please refer to this diagram below to understand where to place the colors:

Design A:

• brush the lids with the darker color (e.g. Bobbi Brown's Camel), blending upwards until the crease area


• just underneath the brows, apply the highlighter (e.g. Bobbi Brown's Bone), blend so it meets the darker color near the crease


• apply a dark line (e.g. using Bobbi Brown Gel Eye Liner) on the lash line ("liner" on the diagram)


• curl lashes and apply mascara


• shape and fill eyebrows

note: this design also works best for those with protruding eyes because the darker matte shadow gives the illusion of receding the eyeballs .

Design B

• brush the lids with the lighter, shimmery color (e.g. BB Bone), blending up towards the brows


• right on the crease, apply the darker shade in a windshield wiper motion


• apply a dark line (e.g. using Bobbi Brown Gel Eye Liner) on the lash line ("liner" on the diagram)


• curl lashes and apply mascara


• shape and fill eyebrows

note: this design makes the lids appear larger and somewhat makes you look refreshed.

For special occasions, you can use either of the above designs and pick a darker color for the matte one and a brighter, more metallic version as highlighter.

Breakdown: Nicole Floirendo Debut Makeup

Debutant Nicole Floirendo has a flair for the city of Paris, which she says, is the ultimate destination for romance and dreams coming to life.  Working with this pretty model's Paris-themed celebration last month, I came up with a look for her that brought out romance, elegance and fashion. Her hairstyle was a mash-up between Demi Moore's messy but glamorous 'do at the recent Oscars, and Taylor Swift's signature red carpet look.

Here is a breakdown of the products I used on her:

Face-

Ellana Makeup Primer
Make up For Ever HD Liquid Foundation #120
MAC NC25 Studio Fix Powder
MAC NC42 Studio Fix Powder for contouring
NARS albatros for highlighting
Benefit Coralista blush

Eyes-
MAC Rice Paper
MAC Cork
NARS Night Fever
Maybelline Gel Liner
Nichido Waterproof Eyeliner (black)
Covergirl Lash Blast Mascara
ModelCo brow kit
False lashes

Lips:
Nyx Orange Soda lipstick
Revlon Color Stay Coral lipstick

Lastly, this lovely photo capturing the essence of a true mademoiselle was taken by one of her her official photographers, Ms. Pamela Lico:

Reasons For Failure When Attaching False Eyelashes

Wearing false eyelashes renders a dramatic impact to our looks.  But it can also be one of the most challenging parts in completing a makeup routine. I've had difficulties with this myself and through experience, I gathered some of the reasons why it becomes a burden instead of an exciting step:

1. Faulty Adhesive

Some are just inferior in quality while others diminish in efficiency after a while. No matter how amazing a  glue works from the first few months of purchasing it, it does get old and when this happens, it won't work as well as it used to. Remember the date when you bought it  and check if it hasn't changed in odor, consistency and appearance- it shouldn't sting when applied. Always close the cap after use to prevent it from drying up.

Putting on too much glue is an error we frequently commit. It will dry up bulky and will stick the falsies to your natural lashes.  Apply only a thin layer, use Q-tip or toothpick to prevent squeezing out too much of the product directly from the tube towards the lashes.

2. Lack of Arch

When you buy a pair of lashes, it's  usually stuck to  a curved plastic, mimicking the curve of the lash line when you're looking downwards. That's how the false lashes should be shaped just before applying it on your eyes.  Problem comes in when you pull the lashes briskly out of its container, losing its shape. Or it could be that the next time you use the pair, it  haven't been positioned properly back into its case and back to its arch.

Make sure you roll out your thumb gently when  pulling out the product. Trim the lashes on its outer ends to fit into the length of your eyes. Hold each lash from side to side and bend it to form an arch.

3. Wrong Timing

After spreading  a thin layer of glue to the lashes, wait til it becomes tacky before attaching it to your lash line. That's roughly around 20 seconds, depending on the characteristics of your glue. While attaching it too early may cause the procedure to fail, letting it dry for a longer time will not attach the lashes to your skin at all. Reminder: please don't blow into the glue to shorten the waiting period especially when doing makeup on your client. Just wave it back and forth into the air.

4. Poor Technique

You can either use a tweezer or your bare hands to apply it to your lash line, whichever  is more comfortable for you.  Locate the center point of your eye and stick to that part first. Attach the lashes as close to the lash line as possible, following the natural curve. Press the rest of the parts in the inner and outer corners using tweezers or your hand.   Wait for a few seconds before blinking.

5.  Oil Around the Area

Ensure that the skin where the falsies will be attached is dry and clean. The glue will not stick to an  oily and rough surface. Get rid of oils coming from makeup removers or from the skin itself.  Wipe it off with a clean  Q-tip.

Below is a  video showing a technique from Emmy Award-winning make up artist, Eve Pearl on how to attach false eyelashes:

How To: Demi Moore's Hair At The Oscars

If you watched the recent Annual Academy Awards, you've probably noticed Demi Moore's messed up yet stylish hairstyle. Demi is undeniably stunning even at 47.

The makeup was clean and simple, which complimented the hair. The eyes were accentuated yet the  lip color was subtle. If you try out a more dramatic makeup with this hairstyle, it may look distracting and the overall effect will be totally  messy. On the other hand, if this hair goes with a too faint makeup or no makeup at all, it would look as though you just came out of bed and are off to do some house chores. Demi's look demonstrates one principle of good design, which is balance.

If you want to recreate her look at the Oscars, here is a youtube video showing how it's done using a Hair Donut:



This video is quick but also copies the hair-do using rubber band:



This blog post is brought to us by Dale Earnhardt Jr jacket

A Newbie's Guide To The Make Up Counter

I received emails asking for advice on which make up products to buy as a make up student or as a budding new artist. For your reference, please check out my old post on the basic make up kit to serve as your checklist on things to purchase.

While you see most make-up artists tugging trolleys around, you don't need that as a beginner. When I bring my traincase, it's usually during shoots when I don't know what the photographer has in mind so I have the colors and tools that may be useful for the shoot ready.  When I go to wedding gigs, I choose a smaller bag because I leave the avant garde materials at home. Frankly, even with the small bag, I don't need all the makeup I bring. There are only a few essentials while the rest are security blankets. Even from the separate kit I prepare for my assistants, only a few make ups are used. The tendency for newbies is to haul on every single makeup despite the ridiculously steep price,  even they don't need really need it in the end. Thing is, you need only the essentials to start a make up career!

If you're specifically hunting for brands that are affordable yet effective, here's my list:(Sorry if some of the prices are not accurate, I forgot them already but I know they were cheap when I bought them)

1. Foundation
Liquid- Revlon Color Stay (Php 800 something)
Cream to powder- VOV cover foundation (Php 383)
Mousse- Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse (Php 300 to 400)
Cake- Fanny Serrano Two Way Cake Foundation (Php 200 or 300?)
Base- Face Shop Professional Makeup Base (Php 300 something)

2. Concealer
Fanny Serrano- (Php 200 to 300?)
Fashion 21 Perfect Stick (Php 150- 200)
Body Shop pencil concealer (sorry, totally forgot)
Note: I have yet to find a cheaper concealer with the consistency of Laura Mercier or YSL Touche Eclat that you can use under the eyes without creasing. If you know a good brand, please help me out. Thanks!

3. Powder
Mineral Makeups- check out Ellana or Luminare ( some makeup artists find mineral makeups chalky and form a white cast on flash photography due to the titanium dioxide. They can also settle in fine lines if not blended correctly)

Fasio Fit and Stay Foundation - (Php 645)

Face Shop Phytogenic Pressed Powder (Php 600?)

In2it- (P500 to 600)

4. Eye brow/ Eyeliner -
Pencil- Nichido (less than Php 100)

• Angelique (Php 10)

Powder- In2it Brow kit (Php 300 something)

• Tip: use your eyeshadow colors!

Gel liner- Fanny Serrano (Php 200 something) or Maybelline (Php 400)

5. Mascara-

Cover Girl lash Blast- (Phpp 500 to 600)

6. Eyeshadows-
PAC- sounds like MAC but is just as FAB (around Php 200 per color)
Elianto- Php 90 to 300 per color, the pricier ones are of the baked variety
Baxi- (Php 40) usually found in places like Divisoria or Baclaran
Generic Palettes- those coastal scents palettes ranging from P600 to Php 1k plus, get them locally from multipy sellers.

7. Blush or Bronzers
Ever Bilena- (Php 150)
Mineral Makeup blush- My fave blushes are from mineral makeup lines (Price depends on size, from less than Php 100 to Php 500)
Generic Palette/ Coastal Scents type (Php 850)

8. Lipstick

NYX- got them for $.99 each online from the U.S. but are available locally in multiply stores
Generic Palette- Check out Doll Face (Php 650)

9. Brushes
Suesh- (Php 1500 to Php 4500 per set)

10. Sponge
Assorted- from P88 store
Sea Sponge- P60 each

Ok these are just some of my recommendations. Will update this post every once in a while to correct the prices and add make up brands worth checking out.

Image Source

An aspiring makeup artist can learn a thing or two from
the best makeup artists in San Diego CA.

Makeup For Protruding Eyes

After giving out tips on applying makeups for  both small and prominent eye shapes, we proceed with the tricks on receding those of the protruding kind. We are skipping the part on almond eyes for the meantime because any makeup design would work on that eye shape, anyway.

We had Cherry Pie Picache as an example to illustrate this classification in our post on the Different Eye Shapes, and this time, we have Sharon Cuneta's picture with the eye makeup that shows how it is done.

Protruding eyes have an exaggerated bulge from the sockets, or the opposite of deep-set eyes.  These can be downplayed by applying these makeup techniques:

• Use a medium to dark matte eyeshadow from the upper lash line towards the crease. Avoid shimmery shadows on this part because it will pop out the eyes further.


• On the crease line, use a darker matte shade to create the illusion of pushing the socket deeper. I  Blend downwards to shrink the size of the mobile lids.


• Beneath the brow bone, apply a lighter shade to highlight. Shimmery colors may be applied sparingly on this area because it is already above the socket line.


• Apply a thick line the upper lash line and smudge it. Line the lower lash line as well. No smudging necessary on the lower part if your eyes are prominent in addition to protruding.


• Curl your Lashes and apply a thick coat of mascara to partially hide the bulging lids.


• Shape your eyebrows.

Breaking The Dry Spell

Identifying the causes was our first step in beating the perennial problem of dry lips. Please check on this previous post, in case you haven’t read it. If you have isolated the possible culprits, avoid them and observe for any signs of improvement.

If you are suffering from allergic reactions or medical conditions that give rise to the smoocher issue, be sure to consult your doctor about it. Otherwise, these tips should work for uncomplicated cases of dry lips:



1. Brush it off. When brushing your teeth, include your lips in the routine at least once a week to facilitate exfoliation.

2. Lip exfoliators. Philosophy, Benefit and Smashbox are among the brands that offer these products which are to be used on a weekly basis. These usually contain scrubbing beads and emollients.

3. Drink up. The lips will talk if you are not getting enough hydration, as though it were a live chat software. Water is a cheap yet effective means to a healthier and well-hydrated body.

4. Use Protection. When going out on a sunny day, apply a lip balm with sunblock of at least SPF 15. During the cold season, seal the lips with a protective lip wax or conditioner containing lanolin.

5.Watch Your Mouth. If you sleep with an open mouth, dab a lip emollient before hitting the sack. Besides preparing your lips for a possible smooching episode on dreamland, this will prevent drying up your puckers during the whole snorefest.

6. Soak it up. Add one teaspoon of salt to a pint of water. Get a washcloth and soak it in the solution before leaving it on your lips for 30 minutes. Pat the lips dry and apply your favourite moisturizer or vitamin E oil. This should be done daily for a week as a symptomatic solution to flaky lips.

7. Choose Your Tools. Save the long-wearing lipsticks for special occasions. Lip pencils and matte lipsticks may last longer but they suck the moisture off your lips. For daily use, stick to the moisture-rich variety or lip gloss even if needs to be re-applied more often. When the dryness is severe, it would be wise to go on a lipstick vacation until your puckers recover.

8. Makeup technique. If you must apply lipstick, minimize the appearance of the lip lines by going in one direction. Strokes that go everywhere will only emphasize the dryness.

Smacking Dry Lips Goodbye

 

Flawless skin- check. Well blended eye makeup- check. Contouring of cheeks- check. Lips- Eeek!

When the dryness of your lips prevents you from perfecting your beauty routine, it’s time that you address your pucker issues. Why be bullied into suffering the consequences when you can do something about it? Let us get to know the causes, find remedies, and minimize its appearance through some makeup tricks.

The Culprits:

1. Dehydration- are you getting at least 8 glasses of water a day? Would you rather ingest 8 bottles of soda or 8 cups of  coffee instead of the good old water? While they are undoubtedly the more yummy alternatives, they do not replenish your needs for adequate hydration. Caffeine is a diuretic that can further increase fluid loss. Your lip condition could be a reflection of your hydration status.

2. Environmental factors-Extreme weather conditions can cause the lips to lose its capacity to retain moisture. While exposure to the cold weather can leave the lips prone to dryness, the hot season can be dehydrating, pointing us back to number 1.

3. Expired lip products- lipsticks and lip glosses are the earliest to go from your beauty kits. Monitor the dates they were bought and examine the consistency, odor and taste of the lip product. If it has turned rancid, toss it to the trash bin. No matter how pricey that lipstick was, risking untoward reactions on your lips won’t be worth it.

4. Allergies- When you're prone to hypersensitivity and certain ingredients come in contact with your lips, expect reactions to come in various forms, and flaking happens to be one of them. Common lip allergens are dyes, phenyl salicylate, and  propyl gallate in lipsticks, sodium lauryl sulfate in toothpastes and metallic items that you unconsciously place near the mouth.

5. Medications- The drugs that you take could have  dryness of the lips as a side effect. Among these are Vit. B12 supplement, which contains cobalt, which in turn, may trigger allergic reactions to the lips.  Too much intake of Vitamin A could also lead to crusting while some Beta blockers and Chemotheraputic agents yield the same effects as well.

6. Lip Smacking- While saliva is a fluid, it doesn't help alleviate the condition when you habitually lick your lips. Unlike water, saliva contains enzymes that are meant for digestion, thus leading to the appearance of those partially-digested lips.

7. Sleeping Habits- If you'r the type who slumbers with an open mouth, chances are, you dry up your mouth easily and wake up with dehydrated lips.

8. Citrus fruits- the acidic content can be irritating to the lips, inducing a phototoxic reaction giving rise to dryness and fissures.

9. Smoking- Need I say more?

10.  Concomitant diseases- The presence of medical conditions like Hypothyroidism, Autoimmune diseases such as Psoriasis, Lupus and Sjogren’s syndrome, Pre-cancerous lesions and Fungal infections could leave your lips dry, scaly or fissured.

Which among these culprits above do you suspect to have caused your dry lips? Once you have pinned them down, the first step would be avoiding or treating these lip criminals. If prevention doesn't do the trick, hang on for our tips how to relieve chapped lips on the next post.

photo credits

Tis The Season For Chapped Lips

After the witching hour this halloween, the cool breeze of the season signals that our favorite time of the year is coming. Shopping malls put on grand decors and artificial Christmas trees to let the shoppers feel the vibe and to make them more generous for gift-giving, I presume. Along with the season comes chapped lips. The causes for dry lips are plenty but it can be accentuated during  cold weathers. How do you prevent this from ruining the perfect pout you've practiced all year? Tips and makeup tricks on minimizing the effects of dry lips will be spilled on the next post.

Makeup For Prominent Eyes

As much as women with small eyes would try every technique to achieve bigger, brighter-looking eyes, those on the opposite end would search for ways to make their big eyes more subtle. If you see someone whose eyes remind you of headlights, you just got yourself a model  of "Prominent Eyes."

The walking headlight is an exaggerated example, just so you could  get the picture. When you see the headlights coming out  of the socket, that's a prominent-protruding variety just like this man on the left. Don't confuse prominent with protruding eyes, which will be discussed separately. As mentioned on our post on the "Different Eye Shapes," a particular shape can overlap with another and produce a combined effect such as the "heavy duty" prominent-protruding type. The anime or doll eyes would more likely illustrate the prominent eyes type alone.

Let us get enlightened on how prominent eyes are subdued through makeup techniques.

Our example, Anne Hathaway, is more of a living doll than a walking headlamp. Big eyes convey emotions without the need for words, but when the emotions get overwhelming,  Doll Eyes can be understated with the following tips:

• Apply a matte dark shade to the eyelid blending upwards to the crease. The dark shade will shrink the  huge appearance of the eyes.


• From the crease, blend  upwards and outwards toward the brow bone with a medium-colored shade.


• Use a highlighter just beneath the brow bone


• Shrink the lids further by darkening the upper lash line using a fluid, pencil or gel eyeliner (observe Anne's pic above).


• Apply black pencil eyeliner to the lower waterline. Line all the way from the outer to the inner corner but stay on the waterline. Lining thickly below will broaden the already huge eyes.


• Curl lashes, apply mascara.


• Groom eyebrows. Avoid thin eyebrows as this has the tendency to widen your eyes even more.

Til the next  makeup tip!

Makeup For Small Eyes

You have been introduced to the different eye shapes and the examples for each on the previous post. In case you're clueless about it, please click this link to the Different Eye Shapes.

We used Toni Gonzaga as an example for small eyes and this is a picture of her with makeup which should work for women with small eyes. There was no info on who did her makeup but I give kudos to the MUA who made her look extra fabulous:

Most women with small eyes want to achieve a bigger and more opened eyes, although I know some who would rather keep it that way.  These tips, however,  should yield a more awakened look:

• Use undereye brighteners like YSL Touche Eclat or light concealers because dark undereye circles will recede the size of the eyes further.


• Apply light colored eye shadows on the lids. Dark ones will make the eyes shrink even more.


• When applying color to the lid, gradually increase height of the colored area as you move outwards or laterally.


• Pick a medium colored eye shadow for the crease


• Highlight the area beneath the browbone and along the inner corner of the eye


• Line the upper lashline with a black eyeliner, extending slightly beyond the lash line


• Line the lower waterline with white eyeliner to create the illusion of bigger white area of the eye


• Line the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline with the black eyeliner, gradually thinning as you move inwards


• Curl lashes and apply mascara. Don't skip this important step. If your lashes are short, consider applying false eyelashes.


• Check the eye brows and  shape them in a way that they are are not droopy

Different Eye Shapes

The eyes are the most exciting part to enhance with make-ups. The right strokes can improve your appearance dramatically or alter a character. An innocent looking lead actress can instantly transform into a mean villain after applying the tricks in eye make-up application.

Let us first get oriented  with the different eye shapes. Examples of each type will be those of local and foreign celebrities whose pictures were gathered from the net. Credits go to the respective owners of each photo. The ways to approach each with the proper makeup application will be discussed in a follow-up article.

I. Common Shapes/ Sizes

1. Small Eyes

Oriental eyes may fall under this category, but in general, this type refers to those peepers which are proportionately smaller than the rest of the face.  Example is TV Host Toni Gonzaga. She first striked me as one with closed-set eyes but upon re-examining her face, I decided she fits this description instead.

2. Prominent Eyes

This group is opposite to the first type, in which the eyes are prominent and tend to dominate the facial features. Think round, anime eyes but in human form. These types sometimes convey a surprised look that needs some toning down but can also be expressive and doll-like similar to Anne Hathaway's.

3. Almond Eyes

Having this shape may cause you to be subject of envy at some point because  although almond eyes are common, they considered to be the perfect shape which any eye color or makeup design will work on. See the picture of an almond below for your reference. Notice that it is pointy medially and gradually rounded laterally. Primetime TV's Darna, Marian Rivera, comes to mind when speaking of Almond-shaped eyes.

4. Protruding Eyes

Goiter probably pops into your mind when you hear protruding eyes but it isn’t limited among patients with thyroid disorders. Eyes like these don't have to be huge in proportion to the rest of the face but they do have an exaggerated bulge from the socket which can be more obvious when the eyes look down or are closed. Penelope Cruz and Angelina Jolie both have these and they don't look anywhere close to being a case of Grave’s Disease. Locally, there are a lot- from Concert Queen Pops Fernandez to Megastar Sharon Cuneta but we'll pick the award-winning Cherry Pie Picache who first starred in an Eskinol Commercial with Vilma Santos and is now one of the most in demand actresses effectively essaying her roles whether as a clever villain or a devoted mom.

5. Hooded Eyes

These are commonly seen in aging eyes which lost its elasticity, thereby causing the droop. These can also be found on young people with folds of skin hanging over the socket line just because they are born that way. Asian eyes can sometimes have a hooded effect, making the eyes look closed even when they are not. Grey's Anatomy’s Dr. Cristina Yang played by Sandra Oh enters the picture as an example for this eye shape.

6. Deep Set Eyes

Sunken eyeballs due to severe dehydration may illustrate an extreme case of deep set eyes but we are rather dealing with the eyes that lie deep into the socket commonly seen among Bollywood actresses. Women with these eyes are often considered a symbol of beauty such as Aishwarya Rai.

II. Distance

These categories are not descriptions of an eye shape but the distance between them which will likewise have an impact on your makeup application .

1. Closed- Set Eyes

When the eyes have a narrow space between them, this means you have closed-set eyes. Internationally, Jennifer Aniston was cited as an example but we'll choose the fabulous actress Cherrie Gil to represent our local scene. Between her small eyes is a thin,aquiline nose making the space appear narrower.

2. Wide Set Eyes

When the eyes are spaced farther apart than the length of the eye, where you can put more than one extra imaginary eye in between, they are said to be wide-set. TV host Pia Guanio has small eyes accentuating the distance between them, making her a perfect example for this category.

Now look at yourself in the mirror and examine the shape of your eyes. Note that each type may not be exclusive from one another. Yours may be a combination of two or more categories. You can have small but protruding eyes or huge and deep set eyes. Uh… having a combination of a small, hooded eye on the right and a huge almond eye on the left is an entirely different case in which a trip to an ophthalmologist may be warranted. Otherwise, we can always put out our eye shadows and brushes and begin the magic. Hang on for the tips on how to apply makeup for each eye shape in the upcoming posts.

Analyzing Color Schemes

This is an analysis of the makeup I did during a photo shoot a few months ago. I had the easiest time prettifying my already beautiful model Paola. To make a pleasantly shocking turn from her preppy style, I did a colorful variant of the Arabic makeup.  I don't know how to call it exactly but the photographers gave me the liberty to work my thing and this is how it turned out:

Going back to our lesson in color theory, the eye makeup popped out with the right choice of color combinations. The main color in this design is hot pink ( a tint of red) which is accentuated by adding its complementary color, green, in the outer corner of the eyes. Yellow, which is analogous to green, further adds to the drama.  The white was meant to add a gradient effect to the hot pink by blending it upwards. White is not a part of the color wheel as it is produced by the absence of colors.

To balance the outrageous eyes, I chose a pale pink lipstick using Nyx Strawberry combined with Nyx Paris.

Here are the eyeshadows for the curtain call:

• Ben Nye Azalea (hot pink)


• Elianto Green


• Shu Uemura ME Yellow


• Mac Gesso (white)

This is an addition to the previous article on examples of color schemes.

Hope you enjoyed this look.

non 12 step

Make Up Artist Booboos To Avoid

With make up schools aiming to professionalize the field of makeup artistry, there are things that separate a professional make up artist from just anybody who wants to play with colors and brushes. Sometimes, passion isn't enough and manners do count. The following are acts that are often neglected but committed by make up artists who do not realize the importance of taking care of their client base.

Follow these rules so no one will be left traumatized by your carelessness:

1. Don't break your client's neck. Make sure she's in a comfortable position when you do her makeup. Let her sit with her back leaned against the chair, do not let her hyperextend her neck for several minutes to adjust to your moves, unless she's from an elastic superhero descent. It will strain her muscles leaving her in pain the next day as if she went on a boxing match instead of a pampering makeup session.

2. Do not rest your hand on anyone's face, especially on her delicate eyes. This is bordering on barbaric. Some strokes need careful and precise motion that can fatigue your muscles but it doesn't give you an excuse to transform her face into an armrest. Your hands should be as light as air when working.

3. Do not blow into your client's face. Some cosmetics need to dry before you can proceed to your next step but please, be hygienic enough not to transfer the germs from your mouth even if you don't suffer from halitosis.

4. Say "Please". When you want your client to move in a certain direction, say " look up, please," or "close your eyes, please." Do not move her head with force  or instruct her in a dominating fashion even if you become the most famous make up artist in the world.

5. Use sponges or brushes. When doing your own makeup, you could get away with using your hands in applying makeup. There are certain cosmetics that blend more easily with the heat of your hands. Some claim to have better control in blending using bare hands. I personally started on this technique in applying makeup to my own face but when working professionally, use a tool. Some people don't fancy the idea of your hands touching their delicate skin.

6. Make sure your sponges or brushes are clean. Use 1 sponge per client. When doing makeup of several faces in one setting, having a different set of brushes for each person may be impractical. Sanitize your brushes with alcohol or wipe them off with wet tissues in between clients.

7. Do not wear a strong perfume. Your work needs getting close to another person and although you want to smell good, don't overdo it. You might trigger some allergic reaction from people around you or cause them migraines. In the same way, please don't smoke before a makeup gig. Tobacco is not a very pleasant smell to stick on one's face. Bring mints or breath fresheners, instead.

8. Do not gossip in front of a client. Talking about another person in a malicious light does not make you look professional at all. If you want respect, earn it. For all you know, the person you're backstabbing may be a relative of hers or in case of celebrities, she may be a closet fan of the one you're dissing.

9. Do not talk about another make up artist's mistakes or ditch a competitor. If you are truly good in your craft, it will show in your works. You don't have to make another artist look bad to make yourself appear better.There is no Hippocratic oath among makeup artists to protect their colleagues but do have the decency not to spread negative talks.

10. Do not pry into your client's personal affairs.  As much as you want to build rapport with your client, do not ask rude questions and intrude her private life unless she volunteers information. Be a good listener, interact nicely but do not cross the line.

Bottom line is, have some finesse, be gentle, courteous and hygienic. Observe professional demeanor at all times.

4 Steps To A Perfect Canvas

Makeup is your paint and the face is your canvas. An essential step to a great makeup application is perfecting the skin surface, or else the rest of the steps will be screwed up. No amount of proper blending of eyeshadows or sculpting of the cheekbones will save your day if the base is oily, blotchy or uneven.

1. Cleanse
- Wash face to remove prior makeup and grime. If on location, use a cleansing oil or towel. A favorite among MUAs is the Shu Uemura cleansing oil. A little pricey for something that couldn't be seen: P1300 ($28) for a 150 ml bottle. A cheaper alternative is Elianto green tea cleansing oil P700 (around $15) for a 200ml bottle. The Body Shop and The Face Shop have cleansing wipes at reasonable prices.

2. Tone
- toning removes the rest of the dirt that mere cleansing cannot do. It reduces pore size while freshening up the face and controlling oiliness. A toner contains some amount of alcohol or citric acid so be careful not to use it too close to the eyes. My personal favorite is Dickinson's Witch Hazel ($7 for 16 oz) which is an organic product. Nivea alcohol-free moisturizing toner ($6 for 6.8 oz) and Neutrogena Alcohol- free toner ( $6.76 for 8.5 oz) are getting raves from users.

3. Moisturize
- the first 2 steps can strip your skin off its natural moisture, hence this is a vital step for your perfect canvas. Properly moisturized skin can keep it supple and lessen the flaky appearance of a chemically-treated or dry skin. If you are on the oily side, it doesn't mean you have to skip this part. In fact, a moisturizer can help you lessen the oil produced by your overly active sebaceous glands. Your body is a dynamic system that sends signals to lessen the production of oil when it senses adequate amount present. Hence, overly drying your skin creates the opposite effect and leaves you with an oilier skin to compensate.

Olay White Radiance (P499 or $10 for 75 ml) which also comes with SPF 24 gets my thumbs up. If you wanna go natural, virgin coconut oil is a cheap and less toxic option, if the smell of "latik" doesn't bother you. Otherwise, extra virgin olive oil may be your way to go. Ziaja eye cream (less than P200 or $4) is an inexpensive way to hydrate the delicate zone near your eyes.

- incorporated in this step are lip conditioning and application of sunblock. The lips are crucial to the total impact of your work. After moisturizing the skin, dab some lip balm on your puckers. Burts Bees ($2.99) and Carmex ($1.59) are good finds . By the time you start applying makeup colors and lipstick, you won't have a problem with lips flaking off because it has been smoothened out during the canvas prep.

4. Prime

After cleansing, toning and moisturizing, the makeup may still slip in no time. A primer is your answer to achieving a smooth surface and lasting makeup. It fills in lines and scars, makes pores appear smaller, forms a barrier to cosmetics that can clog the pores, tames excess shine and allows easier gliding of makeup on your skin. Examples are Smashbox Photo Finish ($38)- a cult favorite, Camellia Rose ($18) - my personal favorite, Bare Escentuals Prime Time ($21) or if you prefer silicone-free preparation, there's Lorac  Aqua Prime Oil- free primer ($30).

Model: Cherry Ann Co
Photo by: Andrew Reyes

Getting To Know Your Brushes

Brushes are essential tools to help you apply makeup with ease.  Don't traumatize your clients by using abrasive poor quality brushes. These tools need not be expensive or branded, either. You can find good brushes if you know where and what to look for.

Makeup Brushes are either made of:

1. Natural Bristles- animal hair. Usually goat, sable or squirrel hair.  The scales in the natural fibers allow efficient transfer of powder to the skin.


2. Synthetic Bristles- these are best for liquid or cream forms of makeup, for easy gliding of cosmetics to the skin.

This post will be all about face brushes. Those that you use to apply foundation, powder, highlighting, contouring and blushing.  There are more kinds of brushes in the market but these are the ones that I personally use. You don't have to own all of them.

I. Natural Bristles


1- Large Powder Brush

• big fluffy brush used in applying loose powder for a smooth, sheer and even application


• the fuller the brush, the more powder will be spread out

2- Small Powder Brush

• a smaller version of the large powder brush. You can do away with it if you already have the large one. Sometimes I use this for applying powder to the neck area because I don't want to put back on the face what I have used on the neck or body.

3- Powder/ Blush Brush

• For contouring/sculpting your cheekbones

4- Angled Blush Brush

• A blush brush that is tapered at the sides for controlled blending application

5- Fan Brush

• For sweeping off excess powder, applying sheer coverage, highlighting cheekbones and the list goes on. The use of this brush varies.

II. Combination of Natural and Synthetic Bristles



Stippling Brush-

The latest innovation for quicker and even application of liquid foundation. Make circular motion to distribute the fluid. This can also be used for applying powder forms for an air-brushed finish.

Made of a combination of natural and synthetic fibers, hence the term dual-fiber.

III. Synthetic Bristles



1-Foundation Brush-

To apply, distribute, and blend  liquid foundation into the face. Made of synthetic fiber.

2-Concealer Brush-

A smaller version of the foundation brush used to apply concealer on problem areas.

The eyeshadow brushes will be up in the next installment of this series on makeup brushes.